gathering
& processing your own herbs
Whether you call it "wildcrafting"
or "foraging", collecting one's own plants for use for
food or
herbal medicines is perhaps among the most empowering
things a person can do, as it implies that they have
taken the time and effort to learn about the virtues of
the plant and how it might benefit them, how to identify
it in its habitat or how to cultivate it in a garden,
and how to prepare it as food or medicine. It also implies that
a person has chosen to take responsibility for their own
health and well being, rather than entirely surrender
that faculty to another.
There are, of course, many instances when
self-diagnosis, and self-treatment are not good choices;
they can indeed be dangerous. There are always instances
when seeking out a highly experienced practitioner is
the best course of action, and it's good to remember
that "holistic" is rooted in the word "whole", which
means considering ALL options. Even if you are natural
medicine minded, remember that conventional medicine is
a part of the whole implied by "holistic". That being
said, most of the herbs commonly used in herbal medicine
pose little risk and much potential benefit if used from
a place of educated understanding. While nothing is
inherently safe for everyone (some people are severely
allergic to strawberries), there are many herbs outside
your doorstep (often literally outside your doorstep)
that can improve your health without risking it. One
simply needs to discover what they are.
There are, however, things that need to be learned about
the practice of gathering plants so that you not only
obtain the most potent and effective herbs possible, but
also do not harm the plant populations themselves or
needlessly take the life of the plants that you gather.
I often think that there are two 1st rules of
wildcrafting. The first 1st rule is:
Be absolutely positive that the plant you're gathering is what
you think it is.
Never, never, never, ingest a plant of uncertain
identity. This means not only knowing what the plant you
intend to gather looks like, but knowing what other
plants might look like it. What follows is a true
story regarding this matter.
Some acquaintances came across what they believed were
young cattail roots at the edge of a pond. Knowing that
cattails are a virtual natural grocery store and that
all parts are edible, they both ate small portions of
the root. Within the hour they both felt very ill and
spent the next several hours with severe diarrhea and
vomiting. The plant they had eaten was not cattail, but
blue flag (Iris veriscolor). Imagine several
hours of severe vomiting and diarrhea. Sounds
unpleasant, right? Now consider that this is really a
lucky experience. Had they confused water hemlock for
angelica or foxglove for mullein, they might both be dead.
This story isn't stated to scare anyone, it's just a
part of what we need to know so we can forage safely and
responsibly, and not harm ourselves or others. It
is just as important to be aware of and know how to
identify the dangerous plants in our ecosystem as the
ones we want to use as food or medicine.
While phone based
plant identification apps
are very useful tools, never rely on them as a
sole source for identification. I know of MANY
instances of plant ID apps misidentifying deadly
poisonous species. A good rule of thumb when using
them is to take multiple pictures from different angles
of the same plant to look for discrepancies. Then,
if you have a seemingly solid ID, double check that
conclusion with other, non-app sources. Don't just
try to know what a plant is, try to know why that
conclusion makes sense... are the leaves opposite or
alternate? How many petals to the flowers have?
Are the stems hairy or smooth? Marc N.
Williams is an awesome botanist (and human) and offers a
sliding scale/donation based
online botany class that is absolutely worth
checking out.
The other 1st rule of wildcrafting is:
Always gather plants in a way that's sustainable to
the plants and ecosystems they exist in.
Sustainability of plant species is always more important
than your "needs". Never not harvest so many plants that
you threaten the continuation of that population. Learn
which plants are legally endangered or threatened in
your area and don't use those. Some other plants also
might be protected but not be legally endangered or
threatened. Some plants might be rare in your area. Some
plants might be locally abundant in a certain area but
not regionally; let those be. Some plants may grow in
especially sensitive habitats; let those be. Gather
roots after seeding, scatter seeds, replant crowns and
learn to harvest rhizomes without pulling the growing
portion of the plant from the ground. Even better, learn
to wild cultivate the plants that you use so that you
not only don't hurt their populations, you help sustain
them. Join the United Plant Savers, a group dedicated to
protecting at risk native medicinal plant species from
habitat loss and over-collection. Learn what plants are
endangered, threatened or at risk and only use
organically grown or wild cultivated varieties. Support
herbalists and herb companies that stress conservation
and cultivation of threatened plants. Even if a plant
seems to exist in great abundance, look ahead and assess
whether it has become very popular and what its growing
cycle is and whether it can really be collected en
mass... remember that even the passenger pigeon that
blackened the skies was wiped out, so maybe that
seemingly endless expanse of ramps could be as well.
Abundance ≠ sustainability. All of these efforts and
practices mean much more to the plants than throwing
some tobacco on the ground when you pick them (although
I do strongly encourage taking a moment before gathering
any plant to offer thanks, respect, and to determine
whether it "feels right" to collect it - it doesn't
always). By caring for the plant populations and the
land that they grow on, we nurture them, and reinforces
the systems of interdependence that nature is rooted in. Wildcrafting and foraging require a commitment of
stewardship.
It is also important to know when to gather plants in
order to collect them at their most potent stage of
growth. Often, you'll see the idea time to gather plants
listed by season, or time of day. This can indeed be
important, but isn't decisive. I think one of the best
to asses and ensure an herbs potency is to know what
qualities you're looking for in it. If the herb's
virtues lie in its aromatic nature, how strongly does it
smell? If it's used as a bitter, does it taste bitter at
the time you're collecting it? If a plant is going to be
used as an astringent, can you feel a sensation of
tightening and drying if you nibble on a bit? If it's a
moistening demulcent, can you taste/feel it's sliminess? These qualities, to me, take precedence over what season
or time of day some book says I'm supposed to gather it
in. I try to taste and feel stuff throughout the seasons
to get a sense of which herbs hold their virtues
throughout the year, versus which change along with the
seasons.
That said, here are some general guidelines that make
sense with regards to "when" stuff should be collected.
Greens: The leaves, stems, and above ground portion of
many plants are often considered to be in their prime at
or just before flowering. It's best to gather greens
after the sun has evaporated the dew away, when the sun
is getting high in the sky, and, if the plant is
aromatic, before the plant has spent too much time under
the hot sun. As an example, I gather goldenrod just as
the plant has gone to flower, collecting some tops with
flower buds, and some tops with the flowers just opened. An exception to this might be lobelia, which is ideally
collected when there are still some fresh flowers at the
top of the plant, but ripe seedpods formed at the bottom
of the flowering stalk. Some plants seem to retain their
virtues thought the day and year. Again, if you can,
taste for the qualities you're looking for.
Flowers: Generally, gather flowers at their peak of
blooming, trying to avoid collecting many of those that
have begun to wilt. They should be gathered after the
sun has evaporated the dew away and, if aromatic, before
they have sat too long in the hot sun. Many flowering
plants will go to seed as they dry (boneset and
goldenrod are examples); in these cases gathering them
just as they are budding will increase the chances that
the flowers you pick will still be flowers when they
dry, as opposed to seeds. Some plants, like new england
aster, go quickly and almost entirely to seed while
drying, and are best extracted fresh to retain the
resinous aromatics you’re trying to capture.
Roots: Roots (including rhizomes, which are actually
underground stems) are generally dug in the fall after
the plant has seeded or died back for the year, or in
early spring before or just as new growth begins. They
are ideally gathered earlier in the morning, and before
the sun has been overhead too long. If the foliage of
the plant has already begun to die back (solomon's seal
turns a straw yellow, for example), you can gather
throughout the day. If you can, replant crowns or root
cuttings and be sure to leave a sufficient number of
plants to continue the population. Especially if
gathering roots requires killing the plant, be
absolutely sure you can gather sustainably. If gathering
rhizomes, try not to dig up the plant, but trace down
the stem and find the rhizome in the dirt. Cut the rear
portion of the rhizome a couple of inches away from the
stem and pull it up without removing the growing part of
the plant from the ground. This allows the plant to be
harvested without much trauma, and is preferable to
replanting crowns.
Seeds: In most cases, collect seeds when ripe. For some
plants you can cut the tops of the plants off and hang
them upside-down to dry. When dry, shake seeds loose
over a clean surface and collect the seeds from there -
this will save considerable effort. Seeds can be tedious
and low yield. Don't expect and easy and abundant seed
harvest from those six milk thistles you planted. Sometimes the use of an herb references “seeds”, but
might actually mean “seeding tops”. For example, pretty
much everyone I know who uses nettle “seed” is actually
gathering the seeds and the calyx together. This is much
more practical than trying to only collect nettle seed.
Bark: Barks are largely gathered in early spring, as
this is when the sap starts to flow up from the roots,
or in the fall, as the sap is returning to the roots. In
this region, I think about bark gathering when the maple
sap starts flowing and is being collected for syrup. Not
many people collect barks from standing trees, but if
this is done, never strip bark in a circle around a
tree, as this will prevent the flow of nutrients from
the roots to the branches and kill the tree. Use
vertical strip, or ideally prune branches. Sometimes
thinning a crowded population will improve the growth of
the other trees; if so, take the whole tree. Mostly, I
gather bark from trees downed in spring storms. In
herbal medicine, it is generally the inner bark that is
used, with the outer bark being removed and discarded. I
personally feel that if the outer bark is thinner and
can easily be scratched away with a knife or fingernail,
it can be left on.
Remember that there are always exceptions to these
guidelines, and it's best to consider each plant
individually. Also, don't rely solely on books or what
others have said. For example, while books say that
ground ivy, Glechoma hederacea, is ideally collected in
the spring while in flower, I've never found a time of
year that ground ivy is actively growing that it doesn't
work great. Blackberry roots seem always to be
astringent all year long, and if this is the quality
you’re looking for in them, they can be collected all
year long.
Be keenly aware of possible pollution and/or
contamination of habitats and ecosystems. Avoid
gathering near roads, power lines (often sprayed), train
tracks (often sprayed), areas that may have been exposed
to fertilizers, chemicals, pesticides or other insidious
forms of chemical pollution. Plants growing around the
foundations of old houses or buildings, especially those
high in minerals, may take up any lead in the soil from
old paint jobs. Obviously, don't gather plants that look
sickly, or from an area that doesn't radiate healthy
growth. Be very wary of plants growing in water. Ask,
"Where is this water coming from?" Research pollution in
your area. Talk to local watershed councils. You'll
often find distance related guidelines suggesting how
many feet or yards away from a roadside or other
questionable locale plants can be gathered. I find such
guidelines problematic... for example, I feel more
comfortable gathering closer to a road if I'm uphill
than I do if I'm downhill. Use discernment and judgment.
Not all land is up for grabs to collect plants. Parks
often have specific rules, and private land is, well,
private. If you are unsure as to whether it is okay to
gather plants from an area, ask for permission from the
owner or steward. If you're frustrated trying to find
land to gather plants on, perhaps try contacting local
organic farms and see if they'll let you collect there. Many common weeds and invasive plants are used in herbalism, and they might be happy to have someone come
and collect them.
After gathering the plants, the next step is called
"garbling". What this means is to go through what you've
gathered, washing dirt off roots and picking out wilted
leaves, woody stems, stray grasses, pine needles and
pieces of other plants that came along with what you
picked. Garbling can be a tedious experience, but it is
really quite delightful, and allows you to get to know
the plant you've collected even better. And it's a fun
word to use . . . someone may call and say "What are you
doing?", and you can reply, "Well, I just sat down to
garble my spatterdock..." Definitely an interesting
way to start a conversation.
Once you've garbled through your herbs, you can either
hang them up to dry (in which case, don't strip leaves
off the stem while garbling), cut them into smaller
pieces to dry (many roots may require this), or chop
them up fresh to tincture. If drying, find a place out
of the sunlight with plenty of air and ventilation. I
bundle up herbs and hang them in a closet, or dry them
on top of a cupboard near the ceiling, checking on them
and turning them so they don't mold. Above the
refrigerator is an excellent location, as the warm air
from the fridge is constantly passing over them. As long
as you have gentle heat and air circulation, you
shouldn't have to worry too much about mold. Another
option is to dry herbs on a screen or wooden dish rack,
which will assure adequate ventilation. Of course,
dehydrators can be great, but you may find they can't
keep up with the quantities you're collecting of some
plants.
Only when the plants are completely dry should they be
put into clean glass jars (they will mold if there is
residual moisture in them). Mason jars are ideal
containers. Though many books say to use amber glass to
protect the herbs from light, a mason jar kept in a dark
place works just as well, and costs less.
Most herbs, dried and stored properly, will retain their
potency for at least a year, though many will last much
longer and some will lose substantial potency within
months. It is a good idea to check on your herbs by
opening the jars and smelling & tasting them to assess
how they're keeping. If they seem like they've lost a
lot of their oomph, you can discard them, though
sometimes I like to keep stuff around until I collect
more, because even so-so quality herb might be better
than none. There are some herbs are said to either lose
the virtues entirely or greatly diminish in potency upon
drying; chickweed, cleaves, st. john's wort, lemon balm
and skullcap are some examples. Usually, this refers to
poor quality commercially distributed herb, and recently
dried herb often still works great. There are certainly
some plants that don't store as well for a longer period
of time, like ground ivy or violet, and fresh
preparations of these may be appropriate to sustain
their virtues.
Using medicines collected and created by your own hands
is an experience entirely unlike using store bought
medicines, and, I am convinced, the result is usually a
much more potent remedy because of the personal
relationship that is developed while making it. This is,
of course, an entirely subjective experience and could
not be proven "scientifically" (in fact, it could
probably be disproven - "scientifically"), but based on
my experience it is indisputable.
Also gained is a personal connection to the land that
you live upon. The “concept” of interdependence becomes
lived experience. Reestablishing this relationship is
as, if not more, beneficial than the virtues of the
actual herbs; for in it lies the healing of our souls...
and I doubt you could find a better way to spend the
day.